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 Lock Polishing: A how to

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FrontierGander
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PostSubject: Lock Polishing: A how to   January 9th 2014, 6:34 pm



Items needed:
multiple grits of sand paper ( 100-220-400, ect)
small fine tooth files for metal or the polishing stones that come with a dremel ( be careful with those dremel tools!)

Arrows mark obvious parts that mate up when complete and rub on each other, remember these areas before taking the lock apart.


Stripping your lock down to bare minimum, simply start by looking over the areas of the parts and take note of the wear marks where two parts rub together. Notice anything thats looks gritty or porous? Polish those areas with the sand paper! The rough spots slow down your lock and put more wear and tear on the parts.

Red arrows point to obvious flaws that need to be polished out.


After polishing that casting mark as well as both sides of the sear.


Taking a look at the Bridle we can see some marks that need taking care of as well.


The Bridle rubs on both the tumbler and the sear. Polish all these parts up very well where ever they make contact. INCLUDING the round nipple the bridle slips over.


A little marking on the lock itself but nothing bad at all. Only a light buffing with 220 and 400 grit sand paper was needed here.


After polishing, reassemble and lightly lube.
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hawgslayer
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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   January 9th 2014, 10:12 pm

Very Happy 
Jon,
Thanks for the info. It's going to be brand spanking new when your done  cheers  cheers  cheers 

Ray............. Shooter

_________________
CVA ACCURA V2 .50 cal MR w/Nitride Barrel
w/Leupold VXR Red Dot 4x12 Scope
CVA Accura V2  .50 cal MR (older model)
w/ Redfield Revolution 4x12 Scope
CVA Accura V2 SS/TH with Black Stock
w/ Redfield Revolution 4 x12 Scope.
KEEPEM IN THE "X" RING   

Semper Fi...... '66-'69
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Spitfire



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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   January 10th 2014, 3:52 am

Who cares if it's brand spanking new when done Ray , it must be silky smooth !

I spray mine with graphite after the polishing stage and that smooth it out even more.
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hawgslayer
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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   January 10th 2014, 6:01 am

Well like I said, it's going to be brand spanking NEW and SILKY SMOOTH   Cool      
Ray................ :Bat

_________________
CVA ACCURA V2 .50 cal MR w/Nitride Barrel
w/Leupold VXR Red Dot 4x12 Scope
CVA Accura V2  .50 cal MR (older model)
w/ Redfield Revolution 4x12 Scope
CVA Accura V2 SS/TH with Black Stock
w/ Redfield Revolution 4 x12 Scope.
KEEPEM IN THE "X" RING   

Semper Fi...... '66-'69
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Spitfire



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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   January 10th 2014, 6:19 am

Yep no denying that !
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AZshooter



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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   October 31st 2015, 12:22 am

It's wise to have some case hardening or surface hardening compound on hand.  Often over-zealous hobbyists go after sear and drum surfaces with excess enthusiasm, wearing thru the surface hardening, and into softer underlying metal.  If not re-treated, these smooth-as-silk parts will prematurely wear.  Surface hardening is simple, straightforward, and mandatory if you've reconfigured engaging surfaces in any gun mechanism.
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FrontierGander
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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   October 31st 2015, 2:29 am

So far so good. Ive been going solid for 3 years now with no problems.
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AZshooter



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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   October 31st 2015, 7:51 am

Was that lock a kit, or was it intended by the manufacturer to be used as-is?  There's some cosmetic finishing on the bridle flat, but the actual working surfaces look to be as cast/sintered or forged.  Any finishing you could do will guarantee better performance. It looks to be a solidly made lock, but someone must have been looking at profit margins & not performance.  What rifle is it from?

I've got a couple of India-Made locks that look better affraid
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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   October 31st 2015, 11:28 am

CVA Hawken. Ive had some that were really worse but cleaned up superbly after an hour of polishing the tumbler and sear.
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AZshooter



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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   October 31st 2015, 11:57 am

I've passed up a couple of good deals on CVA's in years past that shooters at the range didn't like shooting, especially after firing some of my Lyman/Cabelas - Investarms rifles, but never thought to find out why.  It's really no big deal to fine tune your own locks once you have some guidelines.

I've recently worked on a couple of better quality India-made muskets that some folks shun because of bad rep from some of the cheaper-made varieties.  Mine are all solidly assembled, but all should be considered just pre-assembled kit-guns.  They all benefit from complete disassembly, wood fitting & finishing, and of course, lock tuning.  The best frizzen I own is on a .62 cal fusil that I reworked into a showpiece.  After several hundred rounds fired, it barely shows any wear, and is easy on flints.  I think I'm only on my 3rd flint  - can't knap worth a darn, but the black English flints are long lasting anyway.
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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   October 31st 2015, 12:13 pm

haha I hear you on the frizzen. I had one of those african trade muskets years ago, a 54cal smoothie. Horrible fit and finish but that lock sparks like a mother and shot extremely fast! A simple bead front sight and no rear sight. You could still keep it in a 4" group at 75 yards.
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AZshooter



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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   November 1st 2015, 10:13 am

Something else to consider is the abrasive-impregnated Dremel wheels and drums.  They will polish without cutting or changing part profile or geometry.  I've used them for decades in polishing pistol barrel feed ramps, and also for sidelock engaging surfaces.  The fine and medium grit are ideal for all my applications.  Whenever I'm at a gun show, I always stop at the tool tables and buy a couple.
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Mad Irish Jack ODonnell



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PostSubject: Re: Lock Polishing: A how to   February 16th 2016, 9:58 pm

If sanding, I like to finish off with 600 and/or 800 grit wet paper. This is what auto shops use to prep metal for painting. It will practically make a mirror finish. You won't need to press hard, the wet sandpaper will cut the metal better than you think. Wash off with very hot water to clean and inspect.  Just my $.02
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