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 Rotary Capper

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stoney1
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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 2nd 2018, 3:06 pm

@azal wrote:
I am new to this forum, and muzzle loading,  and this post is great,( other than the argument). I will build one of these soon. I will try cutting the brass circles with a hole saw. I know how difficult it is to put together a "how to" post and this one is excellent. Thank You
azal
 It's not done yet, there are 3 more posts before completion. Thank you for your kind words. I'm glad that it's interesting to the members.
God bless:
Stoney1

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FrontierGander
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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 3rd 2018, 1:28 pm




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Buck Conner
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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 4th 2018, 9:21 am




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Last edited by Buck Conner on August 4th 2018, 9:35 am; edited 1 time in total
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FrontierGander
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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 4th 2018, 9:31 am

wow some of those contraptions look like they would be a headache to build!
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Buck Conner
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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 4th 2018, 9:45 am

Many of the manufacturers used craftsmen from other trades like silversmith and coppersmiths plus this was the age of invention (industrial age - machines). Inventions of anything one could think of were popping up everywhere.  I have a capper made back in the 1950's by a craftsman Lynn Candberry from Philadelphia, use to see him at Friendship on traders row, he sold cappers. Some look like Stoney's and like others seen today sold by TOTW, Log Cabin Shop, and most traders except just 60-65 years earlier. All these designs are from before the American Civil War, do a little research on European accessories and you'll see some really neat designs for percussion cap holders from different makers of firearms. I get a chance i'll show you a few pictures from one of Bannerman & Sons Catalogs, I have several of the 1930 to 1935 catalogs selling Civil War items, cappers included.

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stoney1
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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 4th 2018, 12:35 pm

@Buck Conner wrote:


Buck
 Friction holds them in. If made properly, the friction of the hole and that slot that you cut to the hole will keep them put. Being that the slot is not perfect makes it just tight enough to keep the caps in. I know that over the years, it WILL loosen up, but a drop of water on each slot, a few hours before you want to load it with caps, will shrink the slot/hole just enough to tighten it back up. I can tell you this. I have the one that I made back in 1977 and (even though it barely gets used) it still holds 8-#11 caps just fine. I live in North East PA. and our climate is very diverse, but that doesn't seem to affect it?
Stoney1

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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 4th 2018, 1:27 pm

Thats a big mistake that I found out last week lol. I made some simple leather cappers, cut the shape, punched holes, stained the leather and then found that the holes were to small once the stain dried lol. Live and learn.
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stoney1
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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 4th 2018, 2:15 pm

@FrontierGander wrote:
Thats a big mistake that I found out last week lol. I made some simple leather cappers, cut the shape, punched holes, stained the leather and then found that the holes were to small once the stain dried lol.  Live and learn.
Frontier
 Not sure what you're trying to say? Sorry. Are you telling me that my design is bad?  I guess I'm just a little "cornfused"? Question
Dave

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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 4th 2018, 2:33 pm

scratch no dave, I simply was stating that I once made the mistake of punching holes for a leather capper, then taking the mistake of dying the leather and finding out that the hole shrunk after it dried.

You mentioned using water to tighten up the holes once they loosen up over time.
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stoney1
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PostSubject: Re: Rotary Capper   August 4th 2018, 3:28 pm

@FrontierGander wrote:
scratch no dave, I simply was stating that I once made the mistake of punching holes for a leather capper, then taking the mistake of dying the leather and finding out that the hole shrunk after it dried.

You mentioned using water to tighten up the holes once they loosen up over time.
Frontier
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
 Try this. Get a piece of 1/8" brass tubing (it measures about.160" on the OD... perfect.) and cut it into 1/4" long pieces with a mini tubing cutter, or whatever you have? Then, after you punch all your holes, shove a piece through each hole and out the back leaving an equal amount on each side. Next dye your leather and let it dry. Then pull out the brass pieces and coat the whole thing in Aussie Leather Conditioner or Mink Oil. Once that dries, the holes will stay the right size for years!
Dave

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